MARTIN MORAN

one of Britain's most experienced mountain guides

Martin Moran is one of Britain’s most experienced mountain guides and a renowned author of classic mountain books. He has achieved many ‘firsts’ in exploratory mountaineering and major mountain traverses, including the first and only completion of Scotland’s Munros within a single winter and in 1993 the first continuous traverse of the 4000 metre summits of the Alps (75 peaks in 52 days), a feat as yet unrepeated.

Born and brought up on Tyneside, Martin studied Geography at Cambridge University and then qualified as a Chartered Accountant in Sheffield. His early climbs included solo ascents on the Piz Badile NE Face, the N Faces of the Eiger and Droites plus the 1st ascent of the W Ridge of Bhagirathi I (6856m) (ED) in the Garhwal Himalaya. He became a British and International IFMGA Mountain Guide in 1985, when he and his wife, Joy, moved up to North West Scotland to start a climbing school in Lochcarron.

Martin leads groups in Scotland, Norway, the Alps and Himalayas. His pioneering trips in India with clients are unique and have brought some remarkable successes such as the South Face of Nanda Kot (6861m) (TD) and W Ridge of Nilkanth (6596m) (TD). His summer Alpine climbing school is one of the most popular and productive, having recorded hundreds of ascents of the Matterhorn, Eiger and Mont Blanc plus every 4000m peak of the Alps.

His 1990 record for the Cuillin Ridge traverse of 3hrs 33mins was only significantly bettered in 2007. Martin has a particular interest in Scottish Winter and Norwegian Ice climbing. In Scotland his new routes number close on 100 and include the highly-regarded Godfather on Beinn Bhan (VIII 8). In Norway he seeks out remote valleys and spectacular long icefalls, many of which have no recorded ascents.

Martin is also an experienced and popular lecturer and his gripping accounts of mountain adventures have been enjoyed all over the UK. His publications include the narratives ‘The Munros in Winter’ and ‘Alps 4000’, the inspirational ‘Scotland’s Winter Mountains’ and the Alpine Club’s guide to ‘The 4000m Peaks of the Alps’.

Martin continues to be guide and mentor to aspiring mountaineers of all ages, inspiring them to rewards through action, as well as pursuing his own mountain dreams.

For details of all Martin’s latest activities and plans please visit www.moran-mountain.co.uk

Photo - Martin Moran leading pitch 2 on the second ascent of the awesome winter line of Genesis (VII, 7) on Beinn Bhan.